There is a tussle going on between Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing as they are all keenly vying for the title of most exciting city in Asia, the destination for shopping, dining and style. But these cities still have a way to go before they steal Hong Kong's limelight. Hong Kong has managed to bounce back from the upheaval of the handover, the Asian economic crisis and the SARS health scare an today, the city is more vibrant and successful than ever. I think if anything has changed in the last 10 years, it's the fact that Hong Kong is finally transforming itself into a metropolis that cares, most crucially, about its heritage and about the pollution, which is its biggest blight.

My colleague who was accompanying me said that to truly experience Hong Kong you have to get out amongst the old wooden junks and huge container ships straining out towards the South China Sea. And the best way to do this is aboard the star ferry. This is no less than one of the world's great ferry rides, particularly at night when the island glints and winks with the lights of hundreds of buildings. The trip takes just 6 minutes, thanks to the land reclamation that is bringing the two sides of the harbour constantly closer together. For something little more leisurely, we book a trip on the Aqua Luna which is a chicly renovated wooden junk which plies the harbour playing party music and pouring wine for its patrons reclining amid cushions and tea lights drinking in the stunning vista plus it was Saturday morning so we also climbed on board possibly the most famous icon of Hong Kong, the Duk Ling Junk, whose beautiful batwing red sails grace hundreds of tourist brochures, thankfully every Thursday afternoon and Saturday morning the Honk Kong tourism board hires it and tourists ride for free.

Hong Kong has awesome feats of engineering claw the skyline when I saw the International Finance Building which has giant claws on the top of it, boldly proclaimed the wealth and influence of this city. But to truly appreciate the towering monuments, we saw the vista at night. Every evening at 8 pm, s symphony of lights beams into action, laser beams, searchlights and spotlights bounce off the buildings towards the stars in time to music and narration. The best vantage point is along Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront on the Kowloon side between the Avenue of Stars and the Hong Kong Cultural centre, when we took the Star Ferry acroos.

I was not sure what I expected when I got off the plane and walked towards baggage claim. Some part of me hoped of Shikara would pick me up from the airport. Pondering into these questions I got into the waiting car and was quickly driven to the hotel. The place was massive; Jehangir my host offered me a hot cup of kahwa and watched indulgently as I sipped its sweetness and spices.

I was in Intercontinental Grand the grand palace Srinagar, the former summer residence of the royal family of J&K. Hulking chinars stand around the sprawling ground. Innumerable celebrities have called this hotel their temporary home like the Big B (Amitabh). Jehangir led me to the Maharani suite, where I had to spend my weekend. The remodeling that has overtaken the palace interior is commendable. Wall upon wall of art ,
chandeliers, carpets, all work determinedly together to make one feel every inch of royalty.

Next day my guide took me to Dodhpathri, only just opened to the public. It lies about 60 km southwest of Srinagar, and you have to brave a terrible road to get to it. I didn't know where I was anymore as the setting, changing from green a welcoming to brown, dusty and unfriendly, to distant and beautiful, held my full attention and failed my camera. We drove through villages where I glimpsed the fair beauties I had been looking for, but I couldn't see what color their eyes were. We weren't sure where Dodhpathri was, so we just drove on and on till there was no road left, and declared that we had reached. Before us lay a generous expanse of carpented land, nature's golf course ringed by deodars that threw strange shadows on each other and shimmered gently. There was no one else here, only cold remains of camp fire and our guide suggested that we keep going through the trees and mountains till we reached Pakistan, but we stayed and only marveled.

It was evening when we got back, the chill starting up again. We stopped at the Nagin Lake, where a small shikara waited to take us across to our guide Yaseen's houseboat, there weren't many houseboats here while the Dal looked like a parking lot. Finally we rode on water, it was beautiful. I climbed into the houseboat when we stopped. It was good and had carved furniture, the crockery was very old and I had kahwa in it.

I had three things to do before I leave; the first was to visit Nishant Gardens. Tourists were getting pictures taken in additional dress, picnicking. The garden had many rows and groups of flowers planted on various levels for maximum aesthetic effect. I moved on to the shikara ride on Dal which was the second thing to do. It was the most amaging feeling with mountains rose up around us, the sun was gentle and the water was not too smelly. Soon another boat drew up alongside, a floating shop filled with jewelry, shawls, trinkets and other things I would never use. I bargained and then bought a silver bracelet the last thing was to visit the

market which had many paintings, cashew nuts and wooden items shops.

Find driving directions from Srinagar to nearby places
here..

We drive up through great wrought iron gates down a tree lined gravel path and stop in front of a vast European edifice, the Raj Niwas Palace in Dholpur, Rajasthan. Built by the ruler of Dholpur, the palace is owned by Dushyant Singh, son of Vasundhara Raje who married into a royal family and is now the minister of Rajasthan. Raj Niwas Palace is a weekend getaway from Delhi. Dholpur is 40 Km drive from Agra.

The dusty five hour drive from Delhi has got me obsessing about a shower. I fail to pay attention to the Maharaja Suite where I am to spend the night, as I am ushered into its bathroom. The bathroom walls are clad from floor to ceiling with a variety of startling blue, fantastically patterned ceramic tiles. I feel compelled to postpone my shower and investigate this wonderful place. As I wander I realize from room to room is what is marvelous about Raj Niwas Palace. Art Nouveau style light fightings elaborate tower bolts, gorgeous heaters, Swiss made Piccolo Bells, the grandfather clock and the giant pedestal fans are all carefully preserved. Someone here has loved this place and its things a lot. But its incredible that no one not even the owner or the manager seems to know the year it was constructed but apparently it was built to welcome HRH Albert Edward, the Prince of Wales when he visited in 1876

I am now prepared to be overwhelmed by the room. The Maharaja Suite is not only large enough to cause exhaustion simply walking from bed to wardrobe, but every square inch is covered with ceramic tiles with a fish and water motif, glazed in cobalt's and ochre's. The floor is a mosaic of colored oxide tiles, the plasterwork on the ceiling is gilded. Other rooms too are richly decorated with tiles.

I step out to catch my breath. The sprawling grounds remind me of the Victoria Memorial cast iron lamps and a small pool embellishes the greens. After a comforting North Indian lunch I am escorted around Dholpur town by a member of the palace staff. Dholpur is a little heritage town apart from an ancient complex of temples, a step well and the ruins of shergah, many little gems from the past are to be found tucked away. I have just enjoyed the sparkling jewel in the crown

Find Driving directions from Delhi to Agra..

As I walked among the streets of Bhopal, capital of Madhya Pradesh, I was smitten by its architecture with an attractive blend of Rajput, Gond, Afghan, British, French and Mughal influences define the old city, while luxuriant sprawling spaces and contemporary structures dot the new areas. I think the hallmark here is the Charles Correa's Bharat Bhawan, an arts complex, and the new Vidhan Sabha. Bhopal stands at different altitudes, lending an appealing dimension to its urban dwellings amid something of a scenic textile.
Bhopal's other striking inheritance are its lakes, with Bara Talab or Upper Lake from where my walk begins. Its cobalt water seem as boundless as the sea, and a drive on the smooth VIP Road running along its shores reminded me of Marine Drive, the locals call it as Begum's Necklace. These lakes are man made and were created 1,000 years ago by exploiting the terrain and constructing three small dams. The lakes still provide water to the city, apart from being the venue for national aquatic boat rides.

I began my excursion from Begum Qudsia's elegant Gohar Mahal, standing opposite the lake. Its private quarters still have painted ceilings and intricate woodwork. From here I walked across to Begum Sikander Jehan's gift to Bhopal, the 1860 Moti Masjid or Pearl Mosque, the old city's most celebrated landmark. Built on the pattern of Delhi's Jama Masjid in red standstone, its prayer hall in striking white marbles lends it the sobriquet 'pearl'. Opposite the mosque stands the 'royal ensemble' an intriguing concept of buildings. Around two courtyards Sadar Manzil Maidan and Khirniwala Maidan were constructed a group of palaces over a hundred years, starting from the early 19^th century. Every begum who came to power built her own palace, and thus each edifice became a statement of the ruler's supremacy and its architecture was loaded with individual artistic overtones.

Over time, twp squares evolved as distinct blocks. Khirniwala Maidan became the Diwan-i-Aam. Around it stands Shaukat Mahal, Hira Masjid, Zeenat Mahal and Sheesh Mahal, with Moti Mahal partitioning the two courtyards. The projecting turrets on the parapets give the quad a very European ambience. Experts attribute it to a distinct French influence, thanks to the 300 French families who lived here long time back.

An ornate arched gate leads to the second quad, the Diwan-i-khas, meant for private audiences; around it are the administration units- Sadar Manzil, Hamid Manzil and the Humayun Manzil, now they all are home to government offices.

Beyond the city flowers into a network of by lanes and more edifices, most bearing the seal of Shahjehan Begum who took the reigns of Bhopal. She beautified her capital, erecting building at
a rapid pace, including three palaces for herself Taj Mahal, ali Manzil and Benazir Mahal in the Shahjehanabad part of the city. Her significant contribution was the Taj-ul-Masjid, which is considered one of the biggest mosques in Asia.

Pari Bazaar is an exclusive women's market and is full of bead works, an art Shahjehan Begum patronized.